Frequently Asked Questions
Have a question I didn't answer? Reach out through my contact page — I'm always happy to help!
DAHLIAS AND TUBERS
Can I grow dahlias in pots?
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Absolutely! Dahlias grow beautifully in containers, making them perfect for patios, balconies, or small spaces. Choose a pot at least 12-18 inches deep and wide for full-sized varieties. Use well-draining potting mix, ensure your container has drainage holes, and stake taller varieties. Container dahlias may need more frequent watering than those planted in the ground, especially during hot weather. One bonus: potted dahlias are easy to overwinter—just move the whole pot into a frost-free location.
Can dahlias grow in all states?
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Yes! Dahlias can be grown in every U.S. state. They're native to the mountains of Mexico and thrive in a wide range of climates. In warmer zones (9-10), dahlias may even overwinter in the ground with mulch. In colder zones (3-7), you'll need to dig and store tubers after the first frost. The key requirements are the same everywhere: wait until soil temperatures reach at least 60°F before planting, provide full sun (6-8 hours), and ensure well-draining soil.
When should I dig up my tubers, and do I need to store them?
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Whether you need to dig and store depends on your USDA hardiness zone:
Zones 3-7: You must dig and store tubers to protect them from freezing. Dig after the first frost blackens the foliage. Cut stalks to 4-6 inches, carefully lift tubers, let them cure until dry to the touch, and store in peat moss or vermiculite at 40-50°F.
Zone 8: Digging is optional. You can either dig and store, or leave tubers in the ground with 4-6 inches of mulch for protection.
Zones 9-10: Tubers can typically overwinter in the ground. Apply mulch for extra protection during any cold snaps.
What is gall, and what does it look like?
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Gall is a bacterial disease that affects dahlias (and many other plants). There are two types:
Crown gall (caused by Rhizobium radiobacter) appears as hard, corky, tumor-like growths on the tuber itself. These lumps look swollen and unnatural—often lighter in color than the tuber and with a rough, irregular surface. They can appear on the crown, along the tuber body, or at the ends.
Leafy gall (caused by Rhodococcus fascians) shows up as dense clusters of distorted, stunted shoots at the base of the stem, almost like a tiny cauliflower or succulent. Instead of one or two normal sprouts, you'll see dozens of thin shoots crowded together.
Both types are spread through contaminated tools, soil, or infected plant material. There is no cure — affected tubers should be destroyed (not composted). The best prevention is buying from reputable growers, sanitizing tools between plants, and inspecting tubers carefully. I visually inspect every tuber before it leaves my hands, though gall isn't always detectable until the plant begins growing.
What are the white spots or bumps all over my tuber?
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Those are most likely lenticels — and they're completely normal! Lenticels are small pores that allow the tuber to exchange gases and moisture with its environment. When tubers are grown in very moist soil or stored in humid conditions, lenticels can swell and become raised, creating a bumpy or spotted appearance. They may look like white or tan dots, sometimes slightly cracked. This is a natural adaptation, not a disease. Your tuber is perfectly healthy and will grow just fine - gall appears at the crown of the tuber, not the tuber body itself.
My tuber doesn't have a visible eye. Will it grow?
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Don't panic! Eyes (the growing points that produce sprouts) develop on the crown—the area where the tuber neck meets the old stem. Eyes can be very small or even dormant when tubers are shipped. If your tuber has a portion of healthy crown attached, there's an excellent chance an eye will develop once conditions are right. Place your tuber in a warm spot (65-70°F) with indirect light, and eyes typically become visible within 1-2 weeks. The presence of crown tissue is actually more important than a visible eye at shipping time.
What's the difference between a tuber and a bulb?
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While people often call them "dahlia bulbs," dahlias actually grow from tubers. Bulbs (like tulips or onions) have layered scales that store nutrients. Tubers are thickened underground stems that store food and water — they look more like elongated potatoes. Each dahlia tuber needs a piece of crown with at least one eye to grow. Think of the tuber as the food storage and the eye as the brain that tells it to sprout.
Why do tubers from small farms cost more than big-box store tubers?
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Mass-market tubers are typically imported from large factory farms overseas, harvested and packaged by machines, and shipped long distances. While the price is attractive, these tubers usually arrive damaged, dried out, mislabeled, or carrying diseases like gall. Small farm tubers are hand-dug, carefully divided, and individually inspected. You're buying directly from someone who grew the plant, knows its history, and stands behind its quality. Supporting small American flower farms also means your dollars stay in local communities rather than going to overseas corporations.
How should I store my tubers if I can't plant right away?
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Keep tubers in a cool location (40-50°F is ideal — a basement, garage, or refrigerator vegetable/beverage drawer works well) in a breathable material like peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings. Check monthly for rot or excessive drying. Tubers should feel firm, like a potato. If they're shipped pre-sprouted, store at slightly warmer temperatures (60-75°F) with indirect light and plant within 1-2 weeks.
FLORAL SERVICES
What floral services do you offer?
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I provide locally grown flowers for weddings and special events during the Colorado growing season (typically July through October). Services range from bridal bouquets, boutonnieres, and corsages to ceremony arrangements and reception centerpieces. Because I grow the flowers myself, every design features fresh, seasonal blooms harvested at their peak—often just hours before your event. I also sell market bouquets at farmer’s markets and from my front porch flower stand select dates each season.
What does it mean to work with a farmer-florist?
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A farmer-florist grows the flowers used in designs rather than ordering them from wholesalers. This means your wedding flowers are hyper-local, incredibly fresh, and come with a smaller carbon footprint than imported blooms. Working with me is more personal and seasonal — you might even see photos of your flowers growing in the field before your wedding day. The trade-off is that we work with what's thriving in the garden rather than guaranteeing specific varieties and are not open year-round.
Can I request specific flowers for my wedding?
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I design with a color palette and mood rather than a strict flower list. This approach ensures you get the most beautiful, freshest blooms available for your date. I'm happy to discuss your vision, favorite colors, and any flowers you love (or really dislike), and I'll work to incorporate your preferences whenever possible. If there's a specific flower that's important to you, let me know early so I can plan succession plantings or source as needed.
What if the weather affects your flower crop?
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Weather and nature are unpredictable, but experienced farmer-florists plan for this. I grow multiple successions of key flowers, maintain relationships with local wholesalers for backup sourcing, and design with flexibility in mind. Your wedding flowers will be beautiful no matter what — the specific varieties may simply shift based on what's flourishing at that moment. This adaptability is actually part of the magic of seasonal, locally grown flowers.
How far in advance should I book?
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I recommend reaching out 6-12 months before your wedding date, especially for peak summer weekends. Because I'm a one-person operation with limited capacity, I take on a small number of weddings each season to ensure every event receives my full attention and care. Early booking also allows me to plan plantings specifically for your vibe.
Do you offer delivery and setup?
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Yes, I offer delivery and setup within the local area for full-service wedding clients and can travel when requested. For smaller orders or DIY flower buckets, on-farm pickup in Littleton is available. We'll discuss logistics and any associated fees during your consultation.
Do you offer bulk flowers for DIY weddings?
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Yes! I offer custom DIY wedding buckets perfect for hands-on couples and creatives. Options include dahlia-only buckets, grower's choice seasonal buckets, and fully customizable buckets tailored to your color palette and floral vision. Each bucket features locally grown, organically cultivated blooms from my farm.
For more details and to request a quote, visit my Custom DIY Bridal & Event Buckets page.
What's your cancellation policy?
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Life happens, and I understand plans can change. Please see my full policies page for details on deposits, cancellation deadlines, and refunds.
Why are wedding flowers expensive?
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Wedding flowers represent not just the blooms themselves, but the expertise, time, and care that go into every arrangement. For a farmer-florist, this includes months of planning and growing, the daily labor of tending plants, harvesting at precisely the right moment, conditioning flowers overnight, and designing and delivering on your wedding day. Each bouquet represents hundreds of hours of work long before the first stem is cut. Quality flowers, sustainable growing practices, and personalized design all contribute to the investment.
GARDEN CONSULTING
What is a garden consultation?
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A garden consultation is a one-on-one session where I visit your property (or meet virtually), assess your space, and provide personalized recommendations based on your goals, climate, and lifestyle. Whether you want help planning a cutting garden, converting lawn to native plants, choosing the right perennials for your site, or troubleshooting problem areas, I'll share my knowledge and create a roadmap for your garden's success.
What should I expect during a consultation?
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We'll walk your property together while I assess conditions like sun exposure, soil type, drainage, and existing plants. I'll ask about your goals, aesthetic preferences, time commitment, and budget. Based on our conversation and my observations, I'll provide recommendations — either during our meeting or in a follow-up document, depending on the complexity. Think of it as hiring a knowledgeable gardening friend to help you figure out what will actually work in your specific space.
What's the difference between native plants and xeriscape plants?
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This is a common point of confusion! Xeriscape (from the Greek "xeros" meaning dry) refers to landscaping that reduces the need for supplemental irrigation. It includes any low-water plants — both native and non-native — that thrive with minimal to no watering.
Native plants are species that evolved naturally in your specific region. In Colorado, this includes plants like blue grama grass, purple coneflower, and rabbitbrush. Native plants are often excellent xeriscape choices because they're already adapted to our climate, but not all xeriscape plants are native.
The key difference: native plants provide irreplaceable ecological benefits — they support native pollinators, birds, and wildlife in ways that non-native plants cannot. Many native bees and butterfly caterpillars can only feed on specific native host plants. I recommend choosing Colorado native plants for the best of both worlds: water-wise landscaping that also supports our local ecosystem.
Why should I consider reducing or replacing my lawn?
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Traditional bluegrass or fescue lawns require significant resources to maintain on Colorado's Front Range — such as water, fertilizer, pesticides, and hours of mowing. Here's why I promote rethinking the lawn:
Water conservation: Lawns account for over 50% of residential water use in the West. Native plantings, once established, can survive on rainfall alone.
Pollinator habitat: Bees, butterflies, and other pollinators are declining rapidly due to habitat loss. Even a small native garden provides crucial food and shelter for starving pollinators.
Less maintenance: No more weekly mowing, fertilizing, or toxic chemical applications. After establishment, native gardens require far less time, expense, and don’t contribute to chemical runoff or water pollution.
Climate benefits: Less noise and carbon pollution from lawn equipment, and native plants sequester carbon while improving soil health.
Beauty and connection: Native prairie gardens offer seasonal color, texture, and movement — plus the joy of watching birds and butterflies visit your yard while knowing you are making a positive difference.
You don't have to eliminate your entire lawn. Even converting a portion — that strip along the sidewalk, a sunny corner, or an underused side yard — makes a meaningful difference. I can help you design a transition that works for your lifestyle and neighborhood.
Do I need to prepare anything before our consultation?
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Coming prepared helps us make the most of our time together. Consider:
Your goals and wish list for the space
Any problem areas or frustrations with your current garden
Photos or images of gardens you admire
A general sense of your budget and how much maintenance you're willing to do
Property surveys or plat maps if you have them (helpful for hardscape projects)
But don't worry if you're not sure what you want — helping you figure that out is part of my job!
How much do consultations cost?
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I offer a free 30-minute in-person site consultation or a free 20-minute virtual consultation to discuss your garden goals and project scope. After our initial meeting, I'll provide a proposal outlining the scope of work and pricing based on your specific needs and budget. From there, we'll finalize the details together before moving forward.
When is the best time to schedule a consultation?
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I offer garden consultations in late winter, spring, and fall. Spring consultations (booking begins in March) allow us to plan together before the prime planting season, while fall consultations are valuable for assessing existing plants and planning ahead for the following year. I do not book consultations during the summer months, as that time is dedicated to working my farm and fulfilling my flower business commitments.